bearing blog


bear – ing n 1  the manner in which one comports oneself;  2  the act, power, or time of bringing forth offspring or fruit; 3 a machine part in which another part turns [a journal ~];  pl comprehension of one’s position, environment, or situation;   5  the act of moving while supporting the weight of something [the ~ of the cross].


  • Sleeping and eating, etc.

    So this is day 19, easy to keep track of since we arrived on September first. We leave in a week. How long did it take to get used to the time difference? To being here in general?

    + + +

    Sleeping first. It was maybe two or three days before I had gotten enough rest to recover from the overnight travel and for the clock time to stop feeling wrong. But I don’t think I ever fully shifted my sleep patterns. I am waking much later in the morning, some days not till 9 am. I am going to bed fairly early, soon after a late-ish dinner. I have a bout of wakefulness every night in the wee hours. I need an afternoon rest time.

    I don’t remember having this issue before. Is it age-related, perimenopausal restlessness? Is it anything to do with Mark’s having to call in to work meetings, sometimes at 10:30 p.m., with people in the Midwest? Is it a relic from the couple of years I spent getting up to give a 2:30 a.m. dose of medication to a teenager? Or is it from being mentally checked in to the U.S. news cycle and the activity patterns of my friends on social media? (I’ve already run out of high speed data on our temporary international plan.)

    It could really be any of these. In our current circumstances, it isn’t really a big problem, though. We have the space and time to rest, and it’s okay to keep weird homeschooling hours on days when we school.

    + + +

    My appetite has been off kilter for sure. Not the amounts but the timing.

    I almost can’t eat breakfast. I can manage a yogurt cup before eleven, and maybe a glass of juice. I mean, if someone goes and brings back pastries, I can eat those, but it is not because I am hungry. And I can drink coffee, about the same amount of caffeine in the morning as I always do. I like the Nespresso machine a lot. Two pods set on the “longest” setting, one on top of the other, makes one satisfactory cup of coffee.

    Then later, especially if I didn’t eat pastry or yogurt, I get ravenous around 1 pm. We’ve been having our biggest meal at lunch time, and that seems to suit, since Mark often has a string of meetings around dinner time. That’s when we tend to go to a restaurant with the kids and have a slower paced meal, with wine, and usually we decline the dessert course and go get ice cream cones afterwards. So we’re done with the big lunch around 2:30 or 3.

    If I need to shop for dinner, that’s when I go. The kids are resting, Mark is working, and I am full of lunch and will not be tempted to buy all the good things.

    Often I’m not even really hungry when dinner rolls around. I’ve cooked a full meal a few times, but a lot of dinners are charcuterie, cheese, bread, butter. Olives, maybe, or a jar of tuna-stuffed cherry peppers. Salad greens. And a bottle of wine. Sometimes Mark and I go out. It was easy to have a light dinner in Menton, like broiled fish or steamed mussels; the fare up here in the mountains is heartier. I can’t finish my salads.

    Last night I felt so full after dinner, and the not-enormous quantity of wine had gone so much to my head, that I felt like I really needed a day to live on mineral water and plain yogurt.

    + + +

    It could be that I felt off, stuffed, because yesterday was the first day in a while that I did not do a lot of walking. It was a work day for us, and based on Mark’s meeting schedule we decided to stay in the house for lunch. We had enough food on hand, including leftover homemade chicken soup. So I didn’t go anywhere at all till it was time to take the kids out, first shopping for climbing shoes, and then dinner as Leo requested at Annapurna, the Indian restaurant that has been here since the early 90s.

    Physical activity patterns: so different for all of us. Leo, who has an orthopedic issue which limits his leg endurance, has walked more than I think he has in years, mostly on his own exploring. I have gone shopping for food and other necessities most days, on foot, carrying groceries back in reusable shopping bags that are definitely coming home with me as utilitarian-yet-slightly-chic souvenirs. Our rental house is 500 meters down a street that’s pinched between the river and the train tracks, so there’s a bit of a hike to get anywhere.

    There’s a walk after dinner almost every night, even the evenings we dine at home, because that is how you get gelato.

    But on-purpose exercise totally fizzled out. Mark’s not been doing much running; he gave himself shin splints on one hill run in Menton. As for my routine, lap swimming is out, and I don’t do open water. Obviously I cannot bring my free weights here. I didn’t feel motivated to join a salle de musculation seeing as I prefer lifting privately at home. I did bring a set of resistance bands and I did one session with them back in Menton… but…

    …I feel tired and sore, the good kind of tired and sore, from all the walking all the time! It very much feels like I’ve had enough exercise. I don’t know if it’s an illusion or not but it sure feels like I fall into bed every night with aching, used muscles all over. Just as if I had swum a mile or run 5K.

    + + +

    I am really curious how fast I can reintegrate into our normal life back home. I wonder if any new habits will persist, for better or for worse.

    I did hear that there is going to be a new ice cream place going in to our neighborhood, within walking distance…


  • Rally, car.

    So I mentioned that I had a story from lunch. As we were walking back across town from the landing field, I asked the boys what they wanted to have for lunch. Simon said, “Fries and a cheeseburger, the good ones at that one restaurant,” and Leo agreed.

    I knew which one they meant. There’s a restaurant called L’Hydromel which is not only a restaurant but a meadery. (“Hydromel” is mead.) They were in business last time we came to Chamonix, and back then I ordered the tasting flight of six meads to try, which was fantastic, if you ever have a chance to taste six different meads at once I highly recommend it. There’s far more variation in flavor than you might expect.

    We’d already had one meal there this week, and had discovered that they have the best French fries of anywhere in France, the sort you would get in a really good American bar and grill or maybe even an upscale place that has steak-and-fries. Deeply brown and crispy, salted. Proper fries. And they do a smashburger. Correctly. I was perfectly happy to return, so I texted to Mark to meet us there. We ordered sodas and burgers for the kids, a flight of liqueurs for Mark and me; I ordered a “berliner” sandwich; fries for everyone.

    The wait staff we’ve had all the times has been really friendly, and when the waiter came by a bit later and asked how we were doing, I told him how the kids had just done their first parapente and so we were celebrating. He congratulated them, and also complimented my French, which always makes me feel good. I suppose the liqueurs had helped it along a little.

    + + +

    The restaurant is in the pedestrian-only zone of Chamonix. It’s signed like this:

    The sign reads: Pedestrian zone from 10:30 am to 6:00 pm. No entry except for authorized vehicles. Note the pedestrian-only icon painted on the road pavement to the left, and the raised, wide sidewalk (with the big planter in it in the background) to the left of the road.

    But for some reason, there was a car parked on the wide sidewalk, just in front of one of the big tree planters spaced along here and there in front of the stores.

    And it was not an ordinary car. It was a cherry-red antique rally car.

    Intriguing! It was the sort of thing one might expect that a store owner would pay to have in front of the store for a while to attract customers, maybe, if he sold aviator sunglasses or driving shoes. However, this car was parked in front of a lingerie boutique. Curious. Even curiouser, the car had a Louisiana license plate. What?

    The car attracted attention. People were coming to look at it and take pictures. At one point in our lunch we overheard a conversation in accented English, between the two gentlemen who were having lunch at the table behind me and a passerby, and we gradually realized that the two gentlemen were the ones who had driven the car here and parked it.

    The gist of this is that they were taking part in an annual navigational rally of historical vehicles (the Tour of Legends) over the weekend. They mentioned getting lost, and it seems they were mid-rally right now and had accidentally skipped a town and gotten to Chamonix too early. And decided to have lunch.

    Anyway, they (one might have been French, I’m not sure, but one of them was Irish) were telling the young man on the other side of the fence, who was from Poland, about the history of said car. It is the Ferrari LM Sport which, driven by Piero Taruffi, won the Giro di Sicilia rally in May 1955. And now it’s a collector’s item, I guess. We never did hear why it has a Louisiana license plate.

    At one point one of the gentlemen shouted over the fence at a woman who was taking pictures, because she came rather close to the car and he thought she might try to sit on it. “Touche pas, huh,” I said to him, but he did not think that was funny.

    Mark went and took a few more pictures of the car to send to a Car Guy friend of his, who, he thought, might appreciate the photos. I hadn’t figured this out at this point, but Mark had come to the realization that this was an eight-to-ten-million-dollar car.

    (Mark’s friend the Car Guy was suitably appreciative of the photos.)

    Anyway, as the gentleman were coming to the close of their lunch, the waiter gently came by and indicated that they should look out in the street, where what should we all spy but three members of the municipal police, standing around and looking extremely put out by the existence, on the sidewalk, in the zone where no one is supposed to be driving anyway, not just a car but an Italian car with American plates.

    Cue the gentlemen hastily getting up and going over to explain to the French police what in the world they thought they were doing parking there.

    Mark found this whole situation excruciatingly funny, but he had to explain to me why it was so funny. “Because if you wanted to have this car park in your town in order to attract attention and people to the shops, there is no way you could pay anyone to bring it here. But now that it’s here they definitely don’t want it here, it’s only a nuisance. And also, what I think happened here is they wanted to have lunch in Chamonix but they didn’t want to leave the car somewhere they couldn’t keep an eye on it. But practically the whole town is a pedestrian zone. So they just decided to drive into the pedestrian zone and park the car on the sidewalk where they could see it from where they were eating. I don’t know why they thought they wouldn’t get in trouble for it.”

    The waiter came by and I said to him, “I was asking myself how they got permission to park there! I suppose they just thought that their car was so cool” (I used the English word) “that no one would stop them?”

    The waiter shrugged and said, “They’re being completely stupid. At this time of day, you can’t have delivery vehicles here, you can’t even drive a postal truck. And you definitely can’t park a private vehicle on the sidewalk like that.”

    After discussing the situation with the police for a few minutes they realized they had to move the car. So they (I am not kidding) pulled out a set of vintage leather driving helmets with vintage driving goggles and shoved them down over their heads, at which point it started to feel like a scene directed by Terry Gilliam.

    They climbed into the car and spectators started to back away, many of them (including Mark) recording the scene on their cell phones. “Attention!” one of them snapped, rather huffily, at the three cops who were all standing behind the car gesturing at him. “Attention à la fume!” As in, get out of the way or you are going to be eating my exhaust.

    And then he attempted to start the engine, but it took a moment or two before it really turned over, which was perhaps a little anticlimactic for his taste, I don’t know. But he got it going eventually.

    Anyway, Mark was so glad he had not hiked down the mountain, because he would have hated to have missed this, and without his help I would never have caught the significance. Maybe our older kids would have, since they spent a significant chunk of their childhoods bingeing Top Gear.


  • Flight day.

    Yesterday was a big day. The weather was fine, and we had an appointment to keep at the base of the Aiguille de Midi.

    The Chamonix valley is surrounded by aiguilles, needles, spires of rock at the tips of the mountains close by. One of them is the “needle of noon,” I suppose a reference to the sun’s zenith, and it has a gondola going up almost all the way to it, and a sort of visitor center built around it, with exits to get out onto the glacier if you have the right kind of footwear. Not that people don’t sometimes try to get out there with the wrong footwear, just to take a selfie.

    But you don’t get all the way up in one go; you first take a gondola up to the Plan de Midi, the “flat surface,” I guess, where there is another sort of visitor center and also a little restaurant, and you can exit there in more-or-less normal footwear, although I recommend sturdy hiking boots. There are many lovely walks you can take; you are up in the mountains, but down where there is scrubby grass and trees and walking trails. Often there is snow up there still in the summer.

    There’s another gondola on the other side of town that will take you up to a different Plan, but it’s closed this week. So we had to, um, change Plans.

    Plan from which the kids would fly!

    See him? That little speck?

    + + +

    Day before yesterday, while Mark and I were having our dinner between meetings, he was exchanging texts with a mountain guide we know who has taken our family on outings here before, one whom Mark has befriended. The guide’s name is Jeff, so we call him Guide Jeff or sometimes Jeff Guide Jeff because we have a Rule of Jeffs (“all men named Jeff must be referred to with a specifier”, because we know several Jeffs, such as Jeff Christy’s Jeff and Jeff Lori’s Jeff). We also have a Rule of Erics. I digress.

    Anyway, Mark was telling Guide Jeff about our plans for the day. Guide Jeff knows a lot of the people who are running stuff up in the mountains, so he asked, “Who are you getting to take the kids parapenting?” (Parapente is the French word for “paragliding” and English speakers around here tend to anglicize it.)

    And Mark explained that we had connected with the same person we’d hired before, whom we’d met through another English-speaking family we ran into on our first trip to the area. “We feel like we’re really in good hands with Sandie. She’s a world champion parapenter and has European and French titles as well,” Mark typed. (In fact, she piloted the Olympic torch down from the Aiguille de Midi in 2024 as part of a Chamonix relay team of 24 torchbearers. Article and video here!)

    I could almost hear the tone in Jeff Guide Jeff’s voice when after a beat he texted back, “You do realize that means she’s a total psycho, right?”

    Ha ha. No, okay, maybe a little, but we trust her. She already canceled our Monday appointment because she felt it was too windy to take clients down, and warned us to tell the kids we would probably see plenty of people parasailing anyway because they didn’t mind the increased risk. And she’s already piloted for Oscar (14 at the time) and MJ (11 at the time), and she was absolutely great with the kids. Patient and firm. You gotta do what the pilot tells you at 2300 m, 1300 m above the ground where you will land.

    + + +

    We met Sandie at the Aiguille de Midi gondola station in town, fresh from the pastry shop. I had bought tickets for Mark and the boys: aller-retour (up and back) for him, aller simple (one way) for them.

    None for me, because my job was to meet them at the bottom. I hope to get up there for a hike while we’re here, though.

    Sandie was to fly with Simon, and her colleague M. was to pilot Leo. “He’s in a traffic jam,” she said, “he will meet us on the plan.” She had reserved the places on the gondola (the tickets are good for whenever, but you get a reservation for a specific time) and so off they went into the line.

    That’s Sandie with the high ponytail and navy puffer coat.

    I left them there and headed off to the atterrissage, the landing field, which is toward the other end of town, a 25-minute walk. That’s about as long as the least possible time it could take them to get up there, get set up, and take off, and I was pretty confident they would take longer than that, so I walked at a brisk but unhurried pace. The route goes into the town, along the river Arve for quite a ways. Past the high school where I could see teenagers dimly through the glass eating in the cafeteria, past the national ski-and-alpinism school (ENSA/ENSM), past the 1924 Olympic stadium (now a modern, open running track), ending up in a wide, flat field.

    In the field, recently-landed parapenters are rolling up their wings and stuffing them in a pack, chatting about the weather, and where they are from, and where they learned to fly.

    I went and sat on a bench and waited for information from Mark and from Sandie. Happily, there is good cell phone reception, at least on this day, from where they were on the mountain.

    Mark sent me photos of the wings (les voiles, or “sails,” in French) being unfurled from the top, so I would recognize them at the bottom. Sandie and Simon would be flying a blue wing with the Brooks logo in white.

    See the town below? That isn’t Chamonix, I think it’s maybe Les Houches based on the curve of the river, but it gives you an idea of the height.

    “Second gliders mainly blue with a little yellow on the back,” sent Sandie, “We are in the lift take off around 15 min.” That was at 12:15, so I knew when to expect.

    After a while I got a text from Mark saying “Simon in the air! Leo on deck” and then a four minutes later “Leo is up. Pilot doing fun turns”

    (Later, I would get to see video of the takeoffs. Simon apparently flubbed his first takeoff by sitting down when he was told “Don’t sit down.” Remember, I said you have to do what the pilot says! But they recovered and made a second takeoff, and this time ith worked fine. The passenger has to do the running, with the pilot managing the wing from behind. A running start down the mountain, the pilot looking back and up and adjusting cords as you go, the wind swoops the sail up, and then you just sort of run right into the air. They take off, Sandie settles herself behind, and swoop off. You hear Simon’s voice calling “Bye, Dad!” and Mark calling “Bye!”)

    (Leo’s video is a lot smoother and quicker. Apparently that pilot is a bit of a daredevil, because, Leo told me later, he asked Leo right away, “Want to do some tricks?”

    Absolutely! said Leo.)

    Later, I received this selfie:

    “Watching,” I texted. “Don’t see anyone yet.”

    There were some other wings in the air, but the glare from the sun in that direction was too bright to let me make out the color of any of the wings. Mark let me know when they went out over the glacier’s tail and when they disappeared from his view up high.

    Not long after that, I could tell there were three, then four, wings in the air. “I see S,” I texted to Mark. The blue-and-white wing with the Brooks logo was distinctive. They went around and around in gentle spirals. Sandie was giving him a long, gentle ride.

    I expected to be able to shoot one video of Simon landing and then one video of Leo landing, but Leo’s more aggressive pilot took off second but landed first. Mid-video I realized Leo was coming in quicker (and doing wild swings and loops). There’s a point on the video where you hear me mutter “Oh my God I can hear them screaming.” Shrieks of delight, actually.

    Leo lands first, running feet from the air right down onto the ground, and the wing swings down in front of them. I turn 90 degrees to watch Simon land, calling out “Be there in a sec!” and down comes Simon gently, the wing billowing down to the ground in front.

    Happy, happy kids. I remember a couple minutes later to text Mark that they are down safe and happy. He texts me that he gave the kids the tip money and to remind them to tip the pilots, which they do.

    I shake hands with Leo’s pilot and get to hear about their antics. Leo’s pilot, it turns out, the one who likes loop-de-loops, is the one who will take Mark on a little climb-and-fly “from the top” if the weather is good on Friday. He speaks a little English, enough to guide Anglophone clients; Leo told me that between the two of them they spoke some in French and some in English, which makes me happy because it’s a good milestone for a young language learner, to be able to bridge that gap by working back and forth.

    The pilot airdropped me the selfies he took with Leo mid-air. Sandie came over to look. “Oh, I would never take selfies while flying,” she said, “I’d be too scared.” Controlling the wing? I wonder, but she means she’d be afraid she’d drop her phone.

    Leo said: “It was crazy, Mom! He didn’t have a lanyard or a strap on his phone at all! He just took it out of his pocket and took pictures and then put it back in his pocket!”

    I’m letting Mark go climbing with this guy on Friday? I wondered. I’ll have to let Jeff Guide Jeff know that we’ve found the total psycho!

    + + +

    So we said goodbye to the guides, au revoir to Sandie and à bientôt to the guide-who-takes-unprotected-selfies, and walked back towards town. Mark asked whether I wanted him to come down on the tram or whether it would be okay for him to hike the two and a half hours down the mountain, and I first texted “Are you kidding me” and then “Come down now” because I wanted to have lunch with him.

    And we are both very glad that I did demand that, not just because we were able to share a lunchtime dégustation (tasting flight) of six mountain liqueurs amounting to nearly three shots each.

    The lunchtime spectacle turned out to be very worthwhile! But that, my friends, is another story, which I hope to get to later today.

    Cheers!


  • Is this work?

    Kinda lazy day. Only kinda.

    I got up early-ish in the morning, made a double Nespresso (two pods one after the other), and started working on my blog migration. You see, the text of the blog has moved over to WP, but the images haven’t really. As of right now, they are all still pointing at the doomed Typepad site, which is currently the only repository of information tying each photo to the post where it appears.

    This migration is supposed to have happened more seamlessly, and possibly is a result of bandwidth demands on Typepad’s servers as an unknown number of other folks like me try to download everything in a span of originally 35 days. Now 13 days.

    Despite not being at all monetized, I shelled out for the WordPress Business Plan so I would not be alone and have to figure out how to work it under time pressure and while out of the country. Now I am negatively monetized, and I am not sorry. I have access to their good tech support. I will be the opposite of sorry if they manage to save (rescue, but also download) my media library and links.

    Thanks to the Business Plan, for the time being, I have been helped first by being able to access an unusually informative assist chatbot and eventually, when my troubles exhausted the fancy troubleshooting manual that is the essence of a chatbot, by a very friendly and supportive human named Arun, who said kind things to me that made me feel like I deserved help because after all I have “nearly two decades of blogging” to be proud of.

    And here I was feeling apologetic because my ginormous export file is so big it’s gumming up the works.

    Thanks, Arun. (Although I now am also reeling in the years. I once blogged a newborn baby who is now a college freshman.)

    + + +

    So that was a big chunk of my morning, I sat there, typing on this laptop that Mark got and cloned to his home computer just in case he needed to deal with something other than work, going through Nespresso pods, following tech support instructions, and contemplating whether this was vacation or work.

    At first I was kind of grumbly. Here I am on vacation struggling with tech support. It’s like work!

    But then I remembered that I do this for free because I like writing stuff. That I have no interest in growing my audience except to get to meet new people I like to exchange comments with, maybe even argue a little, but thoughtful and kind people who are fun to argue with and fun to agree with.

    And I realized that being over here, away from our demanding stuff, unable to attend meetings or take the kids to scheduled activities for this short time, is actually one of the things that vacation is for. Giving breathing space to reconnect with, you know, hobbies. Things we do because we like them.

    And hobbies do often include frustrating moments that suck up your time in between the fun, flowy parts.

    So perhaps the compelled blog migration could not have come at a better time for me. I have the space for it. Let’s hope Arun at WordPress can find the bandwidth for it!

    (ADDED LATER. Jamie is trying to do what I am doing. Her new blog is here.)

    + + +

    In between exchanging messages with WordPress, I helped Leo with his geometry work for a while, and then around when Arun at WordPress said he needed time to dig into my files and he would check back later, we closed the laptop and the books and headed out separately.

    I took Simon to the toy store to buy a souvenir plush marmot (we declined to buy the one with a battery that made it whistle) and then to the bookstore to select three Asterix books we don’t have. (I read them aloud to him and translate as we go. Fun for both of us.) Then we went out for pizza and a salade Savoyarde, basically crisp lettuce and tomato buried in slices of hardboiled egg, lardons of bacon, and little squares of local cheese. Sort of a chef salad, really.

    Meanwhile, Mark accompanied Leo to the train station, as due diligence requires of parents these days, to meet Leo’s Friend From The Internet. The Friend turned out to be exactly who he said he was, a delightfully nerdy 16yo Swiss kid with blue hair, perfect British-accented English, and a bag full of Swiss snack food for us all to try.

    The crunchiest cookies I have ever had, although I described them as “glassiest” to Mark

    Mark left Leo and his FFTI after he confirmed their mutual harmlessness and met us at the restaurant where he finished off our lunches and my glass of wine. We got ice cream (mine: chocolate with orange peel in) and went back to the rented house where I checked my messages and, finding none, napped on and off for the next five hours or so.

    Another activity that is entirely okay on vacation, as I am slowly accepting.

    (Mark had to work though. We had ti squeeze dinner in between a meeting that ended at 7 pm and a meeting that started at 9 pm. I was skeptical we could do it, but it worked. Duck!)


  • Monday: Disappointed kids. Because weather.

    We had a plan for Monday that involved going up in the Aiguille de Midi gondola to the mid-station. We were in the act of gathering gear and putting on warm clothes, packing backpacks and locating granola bars, when we received information from the top: Not today. Too windy and cloudy up there. They may close the lift.

    So. Need to pivot.

    I conferred with Mark and we elected to make it a work day instead of a fun day. A certain number of our days here must be work days; Mark doesn’t quite have enough vacation otherwise, at least if we want to travel to be with family at Christmas. So there’s a lot of sense in working when the weather doesn’t cooperate.

    However, this is a little sad for the kids. They were expecting a day on the mountain, and instead they must do math and other schoolwork. Literally already have their hats and hiking boots on: Sorry kids, not today. It isn’t safe enough in the weather.

    This is a lesson you must learn, though, if you value life and limb, and you want to do any sort of weather-dependent activity that has objective hazards. It could be skiing, ski touring, climbing, and backcountry camping. Or it could be any sort of boating, or hiking at altitude, or road cycling. You must learn to let go of your plan when conditions change.

    A lot of metaphors out here under the sky.

    One of the glaciers visible from town. None of them are as large as they once were.

    Pivoting from one outdoor activity to another can be hard enough. Mark and I did briefly discuss substituting a pretty, low-altitude hike. But pivoting from fun day to school day was pretty hard, even though everyone knows it frees up another day later, maybe one with better weather.

    So there was a little more frustration than usual. Things seemed harder to do. One of the kids got through only about half of a day’s work before it was clear he was done. Anyway, we broke for lunch after that and tried to find a good restaurant that also had a cheeseburger and fries.

    There’s a place that brews their own mead and has smashburgers and really good, American crispy tavern-style fries. I had mead called “le sang du Viking” and a tarte flambé “la végétarienne.”

    Not much to report for the afternoon. Some work, some shopping, a meal of snacks and leftovers. Mark had to take a meeting till 7 pm and another at 10:30 pm, but that was long enough for a pleasant dinner and a bottle of wine. No complaints. Hope for better weather Wednesday.


  • Mass, velocity.

    Simon had a rougher time sitting with us at Mass in Saint-Michel, the little, highly decorated church in Chamonix, than he did last time. I’d asked him to pack some books for him to look at in Mass—at eleven, and a fairly voracious reader, he still relies on “church books” not to get restless. His current favorite is a beautifully illustrated stories of the saints. But he was worried about losing it and didn’t bring it, and now he is paying the price of having nothing in English to look at (or hear) but the MagnifiKid children’s missalettes I brought. Which don’t last very long.

    So by the end of the 95-minute service Mark had taken him outside for some fresh air on the church steps. Even I ducked out ahead of the dismissal, because after Mass the parish was about to have a party to say goodbye to their pastor who was leaving, and a minute or two into the “announcements that precede the final blessing and dismissal” it became clear that it was really a long speech from the deacon reviewing the pastor’s good works and thanking him for his service.

    If it had been just me I’d totally have stayed for the party. They had tables set up outside the front door waiting for people to pass by and pick up their treats. Only imstead of a coffee urn and a sheet cake it was wine and cheese. And after the wine and cheese on the steps they were going to have a full lunch in a different location in the parish.

    I would like to tell this priest that I appreciate him. I’ve been to this town om Sundays a few times in the last 11 years, and he speaks slowly and clearly with lots of pauses. He doesn’t have the other thing that makes a homily easy to follow, a highly organized structure, but he constantly makes references to phrases from the readings, which help me keep my mental place. Anyway.

    + + +

    Leo had the idea that somewhere in the Chamonix Valley there would be at least one operation selling bungee jumping, on the theory that the target audience for such a thing (people who climb, ski, mountain bike, and fly on parachute wings down from the mountain) is already here.

    He was right of course, and found such an operation in nearby Saint-Gervais. Here’s the link, scroll down to see the jump team making “WE’RE GONNA GIVE YOU AN AWESOME TIME, LOTS OF SENSATIONS, IT’LL BE CRAZY” faces.

    High season’s over so the only day they were taking clients during our trip was Sunday. Accordingly, a few days ago I went online and reserved a nonrefundable spot for him. He was assigned a place in the 4 pm cohort. Mark promised to drive him and deal with the staff without me having to be involved.

    Mark would probably have jumped too if he could. (“But your joints,” I said.) Malheureusement for Mark (heureusement for his joints) they make you sign a paper saying you have none of the health conditions on a long list, including vision correction with a diopter ≥ 5.

    The eyes have it. Mark can only watch.

    I trust that Mark, not me, is the best person to send along to evaluate where the operation falls on the “professional–sketchy” spectrum. We discussed the conditions for “turning back” without a thought about losing the deposit: if Leo changed his mind and didn’t jump, or if Mark didn’t feel right about the setup and decided not to let him, or if the weather changed. This is a type of conversation we have had many times over the course of our marriage—obligatory, I think, when one of you (or both, I suppose) likes to hurl himself or herself down mountains, disappear into the wildfire-prone backcountry, etc.

    I stayed in the apartment and made soup in the very-well-appointed kitchen.

    Mark texted me pictures:

    (“Good to know,” I replied.)

    And eventually:

    I probably won’t post the video of my minor child here, but I’ll describe it. It’s from far away on the viewing platform and on maximum iPhone zoom. Leo’s wearing a pale green top and has his voluminous long hair pulled back. He stands at the edge looking over; a jump team member holds the bungee slack so its weight isn’t hanging from Leo. You see him shake out his arms, a classic psyching-up move. Then you can hear an English “Three, two, one!” and the gentleman places a hand on his back and Leo sort of…rolls forward off the bridge.

    He falls shoulder-blades first and disappears behind the trees. You can see the twin cords only. A full six seconds pass before the cords begin to recoil. And then he comes flying up, upside down, looking rather rag-doll-ish.

    The audio features a French woman who was standing next to Mark on the viewing platform. She gasps, and says something I can’t make out. I can imagine though. Other people shriek and laugh nervously, again when he boings back into view.

    I should have taught Mark how to say: That’s my boy! before he went.

    + + +

    As for me, I bravely made soup:

    And with the help of Google Translate and an onlinr manual in German, I figured out how to run the dishwasher on quick wash even though the dishwasher has a messed-up display and only speaks Turkish:

    When Mark got back from taking our som bungee jumping and I showed him how I figured out how to operate the dishwasher, he said, essentially, “Thank goodness I have you to do this, because I could never.”

    Indeed, it is nice to get to work together. Creating this CRAZY ambience! And also chicken soup.


  • We moved, part II.

    The first part is here.

    After lunch we came around past Turin on the bypass and west toward the long Fréjus tunnel. Signs warned us that there was a backup leading up to the tunnel, which is something you just have to expect; maybe even more with Mont Blanc’s tunnel closed. It seemed to us that some sort of accident had caused the backup, because at one point an ambulance came up from behind. But even after an obstruction is cleared, it takes time to get the backup through, since cars have to go at a reduced speed and at wide intervals.

    I think we sat in the traffic jam for… hm, ninety minutes? Sixty? Simon got impatient but I felt positive. Once we got to the tollbooth it was smooth sailing.

    Out of it again, though, and it was mountain driving. I am permitted to drive the car here, we paid for the supplemental driver, but I think neither Mark nor I wanted me driving it in the mountains. I hate mountain driving even in good weather and in my own car, let alone this behemoth in the rain. Mark drove, and I was confident in his abilities on the well-maintained and just-wide-enough twisty roads through the gorges, but I heard some alarmed mutterings and a couple of “Yikes!” from the driver’s seat.

    The gorges were, uh, gorgeous but very twisty, and Simon was carsick into a sturdy plastic grocery bag we had given him just in case. We complemented him on his fortitude and presence of mind, and drove on. Leo helped him find something to clean his face with. Part of a cardboard box, I think. Eventually we emerged into a town still decorated with flags from, I think, when the Tour de France came through.

    That’s most of the remaining adventure from yesterday, I think. More adventure later today, and also some tomorrow; then perhaps work.


  • We moved.

    We have stuffed all our things into the back of the rental car, an enormous (to us) Volvo SUV that Mark is not enjoying driving, and made our way a few hours inland, from that charming just-big-enough walkup over the top of an office with a temp agency and a one-person tutoring center, to the ground floor plus walkout basement of a really charming house.

    The house is so cozy but with plenty of room that it really makes me miss my college-age and grown kids. It has three bedrooms, two with double beds and one with a set of bunks, and we totally could have fit all seven of us once upon a time when children shared beds if we told them to and/or would have been happy to soend all their time on this sprawling sofa in TV room.

    So far the only downside I have discovered is that there is no drip coffee maker, and so this morning I will need to go through at least six Nespresso pods all by myself.

    I did find a battered French press in the cabinet, but I am skeptical as I have only the finely ground coffee that is the norm around here.

    + + +

    I had laid out three different plans for the drive back, to be selected from as conditions permitted. The first we later found out would never have beem possible, because the tunnel under Mont Blanc is temporarily closed all this autumn. The second, which we used, took us along the coast into Italy, then across Piedmont to just outside Turin, then west under the Alps back to France via a different, 13-km-long tunnel called Fréjus, followed by some driving through mountain gorges. The third option was tunnel-free in just France, ended the same as the second route, but would be 90 min longer than the tunnel routes if they were to go smoothly.

    I think maybe the best reason for the second one is so we could have lunch in Italy. Especially since with Mont Blanc tunnel closed, we can’t get back and forth easily to have lunch in Italy again. And even if lunch in Italy is just at a gas station grill.

    Gas station sandwiches

    Mark and Leo went through the cafeteria style line and got lasagna and “patatine steakhouse” while Simon and I went to the panini station. Simon, who is learning Italian as his homeschool language, told the busy man behind the counter, “Voglio un trancio di pizza,” and was perfectly understood.

    (I told Mark proudly later, and he went: “Trancio! Oh, a tranche! A slice!” Indeed! Cognates are cool.)

    Anyway, the man cut a generous portion of pizza from the case, enclosed it in a parchment-type paper, and set it to heating in the panini press. Then he went back to taking other orders. I wasn’t quick enough with mine, and a handful of coffee drinkers got theirs in first. I watched as he set a batch of saucers and spoons on the bar then turned to make the corresponding number of espressos, then set them up, then turned back to me and I asked for a panino frescotto from the case. He nodded and then went to fetch Simon’s pizza out of the panini press, put my sandwich in, cut the pizza in two and put it on a ceramic plate next to the lemon Fanta Simon had chosen from the fridges.

    Leo and Mark were at the far other end at the restaurant tables, and people around me were eating standing at the bar. I asked the man, “Può pagare qui e mangiare allì? while gesturing vaguely at the restaurant, and he spoke to me and I understood that the answer was yes, and in fact I could proceed to the cash register around the corner where I hadn’t noticed it, while my panino heated. I sent Simon with his plate and drink over to find Mark and went around to the cash register, where somehow, a cheerful “Scusi, signore, non so il sistema,” came out of my mouth as I presented my credit card. Even though I think maybe the right verb should have been conosco. Anyway, he answered me at length and at least part of that was something like, it’s not that hard, don’t worry about it, the only system here is that you give me money and I give you food and coffee.

    I have not been studying Italian nearly as long as French, and I love the French language, but there’s something about Italian that makes it a lot more… relaxed, easy, and fun. Less energy pushing the breath out through the linguistic works. Less stress about getting it exactly right. And understanding it… I am pretty good at French aural comprehension, but Italian sometimes feels weirdly like I have a Babel fish in my ear. I couldn’t tell you word for word what was said but I get the important bits.

    My sandwich was good. A boiled ham with a thick crème fraiche and an arugula pesto. Simon loved his pizza. While Mark was putting gas in the car I went back to the bar for an espresso, drank it standing up, paid in coins and went on my way. Arrivederci.


  • Driving in town: not exactly tranquil.

    Mark, Simon, and I took the train back to Nice this morning, just to pick up a rental car.

    The rental counter was easy, and we were helped by a friendly staffer named Jean-Félix (I introduced Simon, whose middle name is Felix, so they had something in common). We need a big SUV because we have rather a lot of baggage, and one thing about European cars is they don’t often have a lot of trunk space. Back when we traveled with all seven of us, we had to get a nine-seater van.

    Our first challenge was getting it out of the rental company garage. You know those tight spiral ramps? I was frankly amazed someone got it in.

    So Mark carefully maneuvered it into the helix and drove excruciatingly slowly down to the next level to the sound of one beep-beep-beep warning us that the right passenger door was about to scrape the inside wall and another beep-beep-beep warning is that the left headlight was about to scrape the outside wall. Mark threaded that needle all the way down. Whew! Time to drive in the center of Nice, France’s fifth-largest city!

    We made it out with only one wrong turn and got on the A8 back to Menton. That part wasn’t hard at all. Highway driving is not much different from at home, and after 12 days here we knew how to get to the garage we were aiming for.

    + + +

    After finishing up at the rental counter but before fetching the car, we needed to get lunch. Originally we planned to do a little sightseeing in town, but Simon was hungry now so we just went to the first open pizza-and-panini shop we found.

    We ordered a pizza for Simon and paninis for us, and while Mark did phone searches to try to confirm that our rental SUV would not exceed the 1.8-meter height limit of our parking garage, I studied the placemat menu to learn about the types of pizza available here. Many were familiar from Menton or other places, but a few were novel. I posted a pic straight to IG.

    If I had noticed the Alessandra I might have wanted that. Bacon, goat cheese, potatoes, onions? On a pizza? Yes please.

    Instead I got a wonderfully garlic-buttered tuna tomato panini.

    Anyway we decided not to sightsee and just fetched the car after that.

    + + +

    We got it parked in a great spot in the garage—end of a row corner, nothing behind or in front—and over the course of the evening Mark got several suitcases into it, rolled in ones and twos across the street and down the block.

    Then we went out for one last drink at a seaside bar, and listened to the roar of the waves. I looked out over the sand, lit by the spillover lights from the patios, and watched the waves break once, twice, three times, reaching foamy fingers into the air. I thought about them breaking like that over and over for hundreds of years, polishing the stones, dragging them out, tossing them up again. And here we were to watch only a few rounds then turn away.


  • One of the least dangerous places we’ve ever been.

    Mark likes to tell a story from a trip to Rome he took without me, where some local he made English small-talk with warned him that he needed to stay away from “the dangerous parts of Rome.” Mark inquired what parts did he mean, and the gentleman leaned in and said, “You see, there are places here where you will pay too much for not very good food .”

    I’ll just say, here in Menton we have had no dangerous experiences at all.

    Most meals cost less than it would cost us to go out in our home city, and that is even if you correct for the differences regarding tax and tip and even with us drinking more alcohol (since neither has to drive) than we would at home.

    Ice cream costs less. Wine costs less. Sodas for the kids maybe cost a little more. Groceries seem to cost less.

    And we’ve now eaten at lots of different places, including some you might expect to be dangerous. Bistros right on the sea. Brasseries in sight of the very-photogenic stairs leading up to the basilica. Snack bars, kebab shops, pizzerias, sushi even. It’s all great.

    Well, the sushi was about as good as good American sushi, so nothing mind-blowing, just familiar and yummy. And last night Mark had some swordfish that he thought was just okay, but that might just be that he isn’t as into swordfish as he thought.

    Anyway. Just another nice and pleasant note.

    Today we’re off to Nice early to fetch our rental car, so I have to keep this one short.


  • You can’t take it (all) with you.

    What makes a vacation? Are we on vacation every day here, or only on days (like today) when Mark isn’t working and we’re not doing school?

    At first I thought it was a half-vacation. Now I think, at least for me, it’s the whole time.

    + + +

    George Carlin did a bit called “A Place for My Stuff” that I’ve been thinking about (link has both video and readable transcript):

    Sometimes you leave your house to go on vacation,

    And you gotta take some of your stuff with you…

    Gotta take about two big suitcases full of stuff, when you go on vacation,

    You gotta take a smaller version of your house, It′s the second version of your stuff…

    Go read or watch, it’s pretty good.

    Anyway, what I was thinking is that one of the things that makes a vacation—at least for me—is that you’ve voluntarily and temporarily left so much stuff behind you.

    (Voluntarily and temporarily are both key. We haven’t lost our stuff in a hurricane or fire. We are not refugees. We have not renounced our worldly goods and gone to live as hermits or anchorites. We have not downsized to a retirement home. )

    We have a lot of luggage, it feels like, and I won’t know until we see the weather in the mountains next week whether I seriously overpacked or packed just right (because I have a whole set of warm clothes I haven’t touched). We have about one tote bag’s worth of schoolbooks and worksheets. I brought a library book with me which I shouldn’t’ve, because someone reserved it after me and the library wanted it back yesterday. We have ice tools and climbing gear and helmets. Leo has a laptop and Simon an iPad.

    But it’s still so much less than the sum of all our stuff.

    + + +

    I once read somewhere a claim that men and women, in general, have different definitions of “comfort foods.” It probably doesn’t divide quite so neatly between male and female, could well be generationally outdated and has more to do with a dichotomy of personal history. The idea was that (generally speaking) men rattle off favorite comfort foods like pot roast and homemade apple pie, whereas women mention ice cream and packaged snacks.

    The difference was supposed to come from what the food represents to you, especially whether it’s something you associate with labor or rest, being cared for or working to take care of others. A pot roast is maybe less comforting if generally you are the one who will have to make it. Ice cream and packaged snacks don’t demand time in the kitchen.

    (Important note: This is not any kind of jab at my own husband, who makes the Thanksgiving pot roast every year. And it doesn’t quite work for me, because I find cooking relaxing. But I do grok the importance of associations to emotional content.)

    So I wonder the same thing about “I left my stuff behind, so it’s a vacation.” For me I am sure that some of the rest comes from having a break from needing to care for or even think about all the stuff we have.

    I am glad to have so many resources! A whole library of books; a pantry full of spices and canned goods; nearly always the right tool for the job. In fact I very much dislike being without a thing I expected to have, and I like a life of comforts and conveniences and the things that keep, or seem to keep, certain troubles at bay.

    But I can’t deny that everywhere I look, when I’m at home, I see unfinished labor. This needs tidying, that needs mending, when was the last time I cleaned the…? And can I even find the things I need? And why am I tripping over this object left in the middle of the floor again? And the objects that have vague unsettlements attached… that game I bought the kids that we never play, the unfinished-book pile, the half-done project.

    I should ask Mark, who has to go on quite a lot of work trips to not-particularly-exciting towns, whether not having any of his stuff with him feels freeing to him at all, like it does to me, or whether it’s more of a necessary nuisance.

    We still have to sweep the floor and do the dishes in this little apartment, but there’s so little stuff in the way that it’s a pleasure.

    + + +

    Having kids along with you who have particular needs for certain familiar items, sensations, and supports will color it a little bit, I suppose. Some stuff is almost non-negotiable. It’s certainly true when you have very young children, or kids with some types of medical conditions or neurodivergencies. As they grow and get better at self-regulating, at self-management of their medical needs, better at foreseeing and solving problems, better at making do—those are developmental skills—it gets easier to pare down what you carry. And we are getting there!

    Still, we made room for a few things, and for some autonomy in prioritizing luggage space. For example, although I planned to buy toiletries and certain personal items over here, I told the boys to identify any familiar brand-name items they felt they needed to bring (Simon chose watermelon-flavored toothpaste, Leo his favorite hair care products—hey, I brought a couple of those too). And we made room and weight-allowance for Leo’s sleeping hammock and a metal-tube-type hammock stand that disassembles and has a carrying case. That’s pretty bulky, but sleeping well has such importance that we never questioned whether to take it along.

    These extras only mean that I—who claim to love the paring-down to essentials—need to pare down a little farther. I can do that, to make travel a little less easier on those of us who need a bit more support. The “easier” will ripple out to the rest of us anyway.

    + + +

    Another thing about the George Carlin bit that I like is his description of trips-within-trips and how you bring less stuff along with you each time, a subset of a subset of a subset:

    Aww, no. NOW what do you pack? Right- you gotta pack an even SMALLER version of your stuff. The fourth version of your house. Only the stuff you know you’re gonna need. Money, keys, comb, wallet, lighter, hanky, pen, smokes, rubber and change. Well, only the stuff you HOPE you’re gonna need.

    It puts me in mind of a matrushka doll, a nested set of boxes, a concentric Venn diagram. What you have, what you might need, what you know you’re gonna need, what you really need.

    (Pause, though, to acknowledge that the diagram isn’t concentric for everyone; an acknowledgement that demands a response, gratitude and humility and discomfort and charity.)

    Carlin’s bit is meant to be absurd, and it is, but also: it’s a reminder that those of us who live in plenty, so much plenty that it’s a bit of a relief to get away from our possessions once in a while—we can cut back on it. And maybe in some seasons of life it makes sense to lay up a cushion against all the might-happens, but eventually a lot of us—not everyone—will need to leave some of that stuff behind for our own good or someone else’s.

    Ultimately we will leave it all behind, so there’s virtue in practicing. In deciding which stuff goes in which box, or circle; in shedding things like a snakeskin, and being bigger on the inside.

    Will I remember this when I get home and contemplate my overstuffed bookshelves? Maybe, maybe not. I will let you know, when it happens, whether I am happy to see them again.


  • Zones of time and place.

    Let’s talk a little about jet lag, sleep, time zones, and energy. Also what we see and hear around us. In between, some irrelevant pictures from yesterday (and a brief video).

    Headed toward lunch at the marina.

    We are seven hours ahead of home in Minneapolis. We got here via a very brief layover at JFK. Thus the “overnight” flight skipped six hours of time while simultaneously lasting about six hours. I don’t think any of us did more than doze, so the effect felt more like one really long day, not one really short night.

    A favorite Mpls pizza restaurant is Black Sheep. Here is the Franco-Italian version.

    One thing I was really careful to prepare for is medication. One of our kids is on a highly dialed-in medication regime involving five prescriptions and three OTC supplements, taken at four clock-times during the day. Normally I fill weekly dosing boxes every Sunday night and he is responsible for taking them on time, but it’s generally pretty important they be on time.

    I carefully made a spreadsheet before we left and separately counted the hours between each of the different doses, and filled them into tiny ziplocks numbered 0-5 (the zeroth bag was for the last dose at home about an hour before our Uber came). Then doled them out: on the first plane, in New York, two separate times on the long plane, in the Nice airport. The once-a-days wound up coming at intervals of 21 hours twice. The one that could be six hours apart was not disrupted at all. The melatonin and the one that is a sleep aid were deployed strategically to match the new time zone. It worked! No noticeable I-missed-my-meds effect.

    Tuna, onion, olive.

    I hardly remember how we slept the first day or two, just that the first day we tried to stay up all the way till about 8 p.m. I felt mostly normal by day 3. But we haven’t had the same sleep schedule as at home.

    Licorice gelato!

    One of my college kids takes a medication that requires a dose at bedtime, around 10:30 pm, and a dose four hours later. For a long time I have served as a backup alarm for that second dose. At home we do it with an Amazon Echo Dot at my bedside that the college kid can set and un-set alarms on remotely with the Alexa app. It’s a good system.

    Here, dose 1 is around 5:30 a.m. I get a text. Later I make sure I got the second text for dose 2; if not, I call. Anyway, that 5:30 am text wakes me fully up for a little while. I get on my phone and catch the last hour of U.S. social media before everyone goes to sleep. Then I get sleepy again, put down my phone, and doze off till 7:30 or 8:30.

    This is technically the southern end of the Alps running down to the sea

    Mark sleeps in later than I do. His colleagues, with whom he occasionally has to meet, are working (in our perspective) from about 3:30 pm till midnight. So it literally does not matter when he gets up in the morning. He normally works from breakfast to lunch, then we take a long lunch, then he has meetings until 6 or 7 or 8. Not every day though, some are vacation days.

    I’ve also been starting late so I can blog. I am out of practice, it takes longer than it once did.

    I have a mission to the grocery store

    I needed an afternoon nap a couple of times. And yesterday Leo got a little lost after lunch—he walked to an interesting cemetery to look at very old tombstones, but Google Maps had trouble getting him out because it interpreted all the short ways out as Not For Pedestrians and sent him on foot wayyyy uphill first—and by the time he got back he was hot, thirsty, frustrated, and sore. So we sent him to rest instead of afternoon school. But since he missed only his French lesson, I figure we broke even.

    The mission: make quesadillas like we have at home

    After school is when I get a little time to myself. The boys mostly want to use screens, though Leo ventures out alone sometimes, so sometimes I stay and sometimes I go out. I am enjoying walking around and people-watching. I exit the apartment around the time schools let out here, so there are many children with backpacks being escorted home by a parent or grandparent (not a few are being given ice cream cones) and many uniformed teenagers standing in clusters on the street talking animatedly.

    This is clearly a vacation town, and the streets of the vacation-town part (the part that has an abundance of gelato shops as well as souvenir shops and citrus-themed boutiques) are thronged with shoppers. We hear lots of Italian and lots of English: Americans, different British accents, and a couple times Australia or NZ. More rarely, something Slavic-sounding, and even more rarely than that an East Asian language.

    But obviously, regular people live here too. There’s a middle school right around the corner. It’s also got a campus of one of les grands écoles, Sciences-Po, and they just started for the fall. And on Saturday there was a street fair of all the clubs and organizations and things in town: soccer clubs and parishes and gyms and the like.

    Refried (cannellini) beans

    Dress here is largely vacation casual. We made the kids pack better shoes and collared shirts, but I needn’t have bothered: even Sunday mass was shorts and sleeveless tops on most people, and they were not all tourists because that included the parents and godparents of the baby being baptized. It’s hot here and people dress for it.

    You do see the whole range if you look: elegant older women with scarves and stylish not-too-high heels, a few men who might have stepped off a menswear blog, through that magical French effortlessly-put-together look, down to just-off-the-beach (but covered). I don’t see leggings-as-pants or exercise clothes on anyone not actually out for a run or on a bike. I don’t see anyone dressing consciously to stand out: hardly any brightly colored hair, no one in torn clothes or avant-garde or Goth looks. There are people in evident poverty, some begging, most minding their own business seated on a step here or against the wall there, perhaps smoking, perhaps enjoying the cool of the building’s shade, perhaps thinking or people watching like me.

    I succeeded in making a relatively normal kid-quesadilla

    I see a lot of maxi skirts in a light billowy fabric, and oddly, some in a slinky, satin-shiny, stretchy fabric as well (it looks too warm for this weather). There are a lot of men wearing casual short-sleeve shirts that appear to be crocheted: some like polos, some buttoned. Crocheted dresses on women too, sometimes a tight opaque “weave,” sometimes with a pattern of open and not-so open eyelets, sometimes very open but layered over something that peeks through. So keep your eye out, perhaps that’s next year’s look in the states.

    The same courtyard as a couple nights ago, but a different restaurant.

    Overall, we get the impression that this is a vacation town for, you know, not the Monaco elite, but regular people. In a country where regular people, by law, are allotted at least five weeks’ vacation, I would hope there is room somewhere along the Riviera some of the time. I don’t beach enough to think of what American beachfront vacation town it would be analogous to. Maybe there is no good comparison.

    Antipasti for dinner. The baked cocotte is eggplant.

    Watching, tasting, listening.