Sometimes, when you come downstairs for a sandwich at three in the morning and sit down to surf while you eat it, you come across an unusual gem.
Thanks to a link at Asymmetrical Information, which was interested in the economics of his situation, I have discovered Thomas Mahon. His blog, English Cut, is surprisingly fun to read. In brief, Mr. Mahon is a relatively young top-shelf bespoke tailor of Savile Row (though his workshop is based in Cumbria, keeping his overhead low). He blogs about the suits he’s working on, the trips he takes to meet clients in the US and on the Continent, what "bespoke" means, tips on how to use a thimble and sew a proper button, what’s so special about his particular shop, and how to tell a tailor from a cutter in the bars near Savile Row.
From this post about a trip to the US:
I love meeting and making for all my customers. But there’s always that little extra joy when a customers try on on his first bespoke suit. It could be the successful young executive who’s just realized that bespoke REALLY IS as good as they say (Frankly, if it wasn’t, I couldn’t realistically stay in business). Or sometimes it’s the guy who’s decided that before he dies he’s going to have at least one real suit in his wardrobe. It’s a great moment to witness.
And this bit, from a post explaining the three methods that tailors might use to create a bespoke pattern:
["Rock of Eye"] is the system I specialise in. This is where the second system, the above Drafting Formula is calculated mentally in my head, however I just cut the pattern freehand, using only my tape measure and chalk to guide me. This method is used for the jacket only- to draught trousers without a square and stick would be folly.
This method does sound slightly vague, because it is. However as Mr. Hallbery told me, on my first encounter in the Anderson & Sheppard cutting room, “Show me a right angle on a man and I’ll let you use that square”.
It’s a fun blog. Read some more.
bearing blog 